4 digital cameras worth talking about

Sony Alpha SLT-A77V

The SLT-A77V delivers generally excellent photos and videos. The camera does a good job of sharpening JPEGs in the default settings. For shooting video, the autofocus works smoothly and quietly, and the camera is easy to maneuver without a rig. Although it is heavier than some other cameras, it’s built sturdily, and the body is dust- and weather-resistant.

FEATURES:

  • Battery life–470 shots
  • Dimensions (inches, width/height/depth)–5.8×4.1×3.3
  • Body operating weight (ounces)–25.9

Nikon D7000

Although the Nikon D7000 is on the expensive side for a first-time DSLR purchase, CNET reports that it stands out as a great camera for experienced photographers and for those who are ready to replace their current DSLR camera with something more powerful. Fans of the camera commented on its great photo quality, solid and consistent exposure and metering, and two SD card slots.

FEATURES:

  • Battery life–1,050 shots
  • Dimensions (inches, width/height/ depth)–5.2×4.1×3
  • Body operating weight (ounces)–24.3

Canon EOS Rebel T3i

According to CNET, the Canon EOS Rebel T3i is the best DSLR camera available for less than $1,000. The camera not only caters to still shooters, but to videographers as well. Canon incorporates the Video Snapshot feature from its camcorders, allowing users to snap up to eight-second clips and add some in-camera special-effects filters. The camera is fast–powering on, focusing, and shooting in about 0.3 second. Customer reviews noted excellent image quality and easy-to-use design, features, and settings.

FEATURES:

  • Battery life–470 shots
  • Dimensions (inches, width/height/depth)–5.2×3.9×3.1
  • Body operating weight (ounces)–20

Olympus OM-D E-M5

According to CNET, the Olympus OM-D E-M5 is the fastest camera in its class. It powers on, focuses, and shoots in less than 1.1 seconds. It’s a good size that is comfortable to grip. A unique feature is the camera’s ability to display and adjust the highlight and shadow areas of the tone curve in the viewfinder. The interesting and streamlined shooting design is another noticeable feature. Customers gave it high ratings for image quality, image stabilization, autofocus, and shot-to-shot speed.

FEATURES:

  • Battery life–not available
  • Dimensions (inches, width/height/ depth)–4.8×3.5×1.7
  • Body operating weight (ounces)–15.1

Light, camera, action

A moving subject presents the photographer with a situation that requires quick thinking and plenty of preparation. Photographers don’t capture images of rapidly moving subjects such as lions chasing prey by merely reacting to what passes in front of their eyes. They come prepared for the confrontation and are able to anticipate the speed of the action and direction of travel.

Before you pick up your camera, you need to decide in advance whether to freeze the action with a fast shutter speed or emphasise the movement through techniques such as panning, slow-sync flash and time exposures. Your decision will depend largely on the subject and setting, as well as any technical limitations of your equipment.

One of the basics of photography is learning which shutter speed to choose with the lens in use in order to achieve a sharp image unaffected by the dreaded ‘camera shake’. There is an old rule of thumb for the 35-millimetre format that the minimum shutter speed selected should be the equivalent to the focal length of the lens in use, so 1/30sec for a 28-millimetre wide-angle lens, all the way up to 1/500sec for a 500-millimetre telephoto.

Although digital imaging means we can now work with a different range of focal lengths and with a greater choice of shutter speeds, the principle of this rule remains the same. Simply, the slower the shutter speed, the greater the chance of there being unwanted image blur or movement in your pictures. Unless, of course, you actually want to record such image blur. In that case, combining slow shutter speeds with panning proves most effective.

Action panning

Many wildlife and sports photographers use panning to depict a rapidly moving subject against a blurred background in order to convey the speed of the action and concentrate more of the viewer’s attention onto the subject. Panning is best executed when the camera locks focus on the subject and follows its path in a steady sweep, even after the shutter has fired. The camera’s autofocus needs to be set to continuous (predictive) AF mode and the shutter speed slow enough (1/60sec or less) to render the background as a streaky blur while the moving subject stays relatively sharp. This technique is effective with many wildlife images as well as sporting and cultural events.

The effect can be further accentuated by the use of flash. Most SLR cameras have a flash sync speed of 1/125sec or 1/250sec. (Remember, the flash sync speed is also the maximum shutter speed you should use with flash.) Using a slower shutter speed allows the scene to be recorded with the ambient light as well as the light from the flash. The effect of the ambient light on the scene, particularly the background, increases the longer the shutter stays open. If you’re close enough to the subject, the flash will help fill in any shadows and render a ghosting effect on moving parts.

When taking photos while panning, just focus on your subject–for example, a passing cyclist–and keep it within the frame, tracking its path across you. With your camera’s motordrive set to continuous, a burst of flash exposures with the shutter set at say 1/30sec will produce a well-lit foreground and focused target, but with a streaked background that helps emphasise the speed of the bicycle. By checking your results on the monitor you can determine if your choice of shutter speed was best for the desired effect.

Wildlife and water

Of course, not all subjects move as predictably as a passing cyclist. Wildlife, especially birds in flight, can be more unpredictable, and it pays to spend time observing the habits of your target. Knowing where a bird is likely to perch will help enormously in your attempts to photograph it in flight, as the instant before landing is when a bird’s flight is at its slowest.

Landscape photographers use shutter speeds of several seconds, even longer, when photographing scenes of moving water such as a waterfall or the sea rising and ebbing on the shoreline. Such slow shutter speeds (time exposures) create a soft and misty impression of water, erasing any defining lines of shape and depicting the surface as a study of muted colour. However, to be fully effective, the camera must be fixed on a tripod and the shutter released by a remote release or self-timer.

Freezing action

Freezing high-speed action requires a different approach. The quicker the subject, the faster the shutter speed required. Assuming there is enough light to ensure an accurate exposure, a shutter speed of 1/500sec will be adequate for most lenses and in most situations. Subjects such as F1 racing cars, skiers and other sports action will require something faster.

Stopping down the lens to its maximum aperture will give you the best chance of using the fastest possible shutter speed. Fast shutter speeds lessen the risk of camera shake, but some form of support, such as a tripod, is still advisable.

When photographing ball games, you will need to fire a continuous burst of frames to capture the moment when ball meets racquet, bat, boot or club. Even then, it will be mostly luck that determines if you’re successful.

Dos and don’ts of photographing moving subjects

Do …

* When panning, make sure to keep your camera moving evenly before, during and after firing the shutter

* Switch your camera’s autofocus mode to ‘continuous’ Many cameras now have a sophisticated ‘predictive’ algorithm that keeps up with changes of speed and direction as long as the subject is tracked

* Consider a monopod over a tripod. They are quicker to set up, keep your camera steady while panning and won’t get in anyone’s way

Don’t …

* Use a shutter speed faster than your camera’s flash sync speed if using flash. If you do, part of your image will be blacked-out by the shutter blind passing across the image sensor during exposure

* Forget to check the maximum range of your flash. Flash falls off quickly and less light may reach your subject than you think

* Just shoot from the hip, particularly when using long lenses. Always consider some means of support, even a beanbag on a ledge or car window sill

Equipment: lenses and cameras

Lens options: lenses to heat the shakes

Canon was the first manufacturer to develop special lens technology to counteract lateral and vertical movements caused by hand holding. Its range of image stabilising lenses make it possible to use slower shutter speeds for sharp results when using a camera and lens without a tripod. Nikon has a similar range of vibration reduction lenses, most recently applied to a 105-millimetre macro, while independent lens maker Sigma has developed an optical stabiliser lens range covering some telephoto focal lengths. While these lenses can’t substitute for the complete stability of a tripod, they can be a limited alternative in situations where a tripod is impractical.

Contacts: www.sigma-imaging-uk.com, www.canon.co.uk, www.nikon.co.uk

Digital option: Sony a100

Sony’s first interchangeable-lens digital SLR costs just 599 [pounds sterling] body only and is fully compatible with the Konica Minolta range of 35-millimetre and digital lenses. This camera features Super SteadyShot, a system that compensates for body vibrations at the instant the shutter is released by tilting the CCD image sensor in real time for sharper pictures. Because it is built into the camera, Super SteadyShot works with all Sony [alpha]-mount compatible lenses, thereby saving the need to buy into a specialist lens range.

Capturing star trails with a digital camera

Today’s digital SLR cameras and image-processing software are breathing new life into an old film-based technique.

Like many amateur astrophotographers who grew up using photographic film, I’ve been a bit reluctant to embrace the virtues of CCD imaging as a complete replacement for film. Sure, thermoelectrically cooled CCD cameras on telescopes play an important role at all levels of astronomy, but I’ve stubbornly (perhaps even a bit irrationally) held to the belief that some images can be obtained only by using good old-fashioned photographic emulsions.

One realm where I thought film would always reign supreme is in capturing star trails. One might ask why anyone would even consider taking something as simple and straightforward as star trails and adding the cost and complexity of digital photography to the mix. As I have recently discovered, however, it’s definitely worth the effort. The results presented in this article demonstrate the advantages of recording star trails digitally and show how this new realm of possibilities can breathe new life and creativity into your tired old star-trail photos.

Although I have to admit that working for Gemini Observatory with telescopes on Mauna Kea in Hawaii and Cerro Pachon in Chile gives me regular access to nearly perfect skies as backdrops, the technique described here can be adapted to urban sites as well. In fact, the improvements are even more dramatic in situations where light pollution or bright moonlight would prohibit shooting long-exposure star trails with film.

A Serendipitous Discovery

It all began one chilly night in early 2003 at the Gemini North Telescope, where two other astrophotographers and I were enjoying an evening of digital imaging. Our main purpose was to set up our Nikon D1x digital SLR (single-lens reflex) camera and to experiment with the possibility of creating a time-lapse movie of stars passing over Gemini’s dome from a sequence of 1-minute stills. Armed with an electronic timer, a portable power supply, cold-weather gear, and lots of hot chocolate, we began shooting images.

As often seems to happen when one experiments with new ideas and equipment, serendipity provided us with an opportunity to learn something new. In this case, the microdrive card that we were using could hold only 1 gigabyte of data. (A microdrive card is a miniature hard-disk drive that fits into the camera’s memory-card slot.) Every hour or so we bundled up and left the comfort of the observatory’s warm control room to stumble around in the darkness to replace the card. With time on our hands between downloading the cards’ contents, we experimented with the images we had obtained.

First we opened the individual images with Adobe Photoshop software and created an automated routine to subtract (remove) the electronic noise generated by the camera’s CCD detector using a dark frame. (A dark frame is an image of the same exposure duration and camera settings as the desired image, only with the camera lens covered.) This is done with Photoshop’s Difference blending mode, with the dark frame in one layer and the desired image in another. Each of these processed images was then flattened (combined) and saved and archived as a separate file on a CD.

After verifying that our image sequence would make a nice time-lapse movie, we began experimenting with a “stack” of images in Photoshop to see what other interesting things we could do. Inspiration struck one of our team members, Kevin Jones, when he began playing with the different blending-mode options used to combine the image layers. It turns out that the Lighten mode takes the selected image layer (the foreground) and compares its pixel values (in each color channel) with the underlying layer. If the foreground’s pixel values are the same as (or less than) the underlying layer, it leaves the resulting pixels unchanged. However, if the foreground’s values are higher (brighter), the Lighten mode uses the higher value of the two pixels in the composite. On the surface, this might not sound very profound, but the effect is that the sky brightness never increases beyond that present in the brightest single image. Meanwhile, the star images themselves continue to build up as the stars drift across the camera’s field.

The more images you add to the stack, the longer the resulting star trails. Since the sky brightness stays at a constant low level, the visual depth and contrast of a digital star-trail shot is more dramatic compared to a traditional long-exposure film photograph. (In the latter, the sky brightness accumulates during the entire exposure, reducing contrast between the stars and the background sky;)

Another advantage of the digital technique is that any foreground object that is illuminated will not become overexposed, as it would in a long-duration film exposure. This is especially important when you are attempting star trails with well lit foregrounds or under bright moonlight. Light pollution is also suppressed, allowing for dramatic star trails in relatively well lit areas that would otherwise quickly saturate film.

Tips and Pointers

For those wishing to try this technique, it is very helpful to use some sort of inter-valometer or timing circuit to automate the exposure times and intervals so you can leave the camera and not have to attend to each exposure.

It’s also important to keep pauses between exposures to a minimum (pauses will mean gaps in your star trails). With the Nikon D1x fitted with a 14-millimeter f/2.8 Nikkor lens, we were able to start the next exposure within about 1 to 2 seconds of the previous image–any longer than this and we would see a noticeable gap between exposures, even with such a short-focus lens. Most of our experiments were done centered on the equatorial region of the sky; the exposure gaps, however, were minimized when we shot circumpolar star fields.

Digital cameras differ in their ability to take long exposures, but detector noise is an issue with all digital cameras once exposures go beyond a second or two. To overcome this, some cameras have an automatic “noise-reduction” option, which might help, but could be unreliable depending upon the exposure time. For star-trail exposures I suggest disabling any of the camera’s built-in noise-reduction features and taking a dark frame. It’s a good idea to take a dark frame at the start and end of each session since the noise characteristics of a CCD or CMOS chip can change with temperature.

Use flash-memory or microdrive cards with the largest capacity that you can afford. Some cameras will allow you to switch cards while an exposure is being taken (but not while it is saving an image, of course) so you can keep a sequence going without missing a frame to change cards.

Experiment with different exposure times, white-balance and ISO settings, lens f/stops, and so forth. Each camera’s silicon detector is different, so plan on doing some preliminary tests first to find the best combination.

When you’re taking images, it’s always best to capture them in a noncompressed format such as TIFF. Make sure that the dark frames used have the same image format.

If you have a portable power supply, use it. Digital cameras require a lot of power when you’re using the bulb (time-exposure) setting, and, as the ambient temperature drops, the camera battery’s performance will also suffer.

Autofocus digital SLRs might have trouble focusing at infinity, so set the focus manually. If you use a manual-focus camera, notice where its infinity setting is located, as it’s often just inside the lens’s focus stop. Do some tests first to find the best focus.

With our setup, we obtained optimal results with 45- to 60-second exposures, but we also obtained good results with exposures up to 2 minutes long. Our 60-second shots recorded stars down to about 7th magnitude.

Image Processing

Once you have obtained all your exposures, transfer them to a computer with image-processing software. I use Photoshop 7.0 on a Macintosh G4 running under OS X, but I suspect other programs would work. The following instructions will be for Photoshop users:

1. Open the first image of your sequence and save it under a new name that you want to use for the final star-trail image.

2. Open the next image in your sequence. Use the Select > All command and copy this image (Edit > Copy).

3. Paste the copied image onto the first image–this is the beginning of the “stacking” process. You can now close the image that was copied to avoid confusion since you’re now done with that image.

4. Open the Layers palette (Window > Show Layers) and select the new layer created in the previous step.

5. Click on the Blend Mode menu in the Layers palette and select the Lighten mode. You should now see both images merged together as one.

6. Repeat steps 2 to 5 until you’re done with all images. You will probably want to flatten (under the Layer menu bar) your star-trail images periodically to save on disk space and memory in your computer. When you flatten an image all of your existing layers are merged into one and the file size becomes much smaller.

7. Once you’ve stacked and flattened all your images into a single one, you need to subtract the dark frame. To do this simply open the dark-frame image, click on Select > All, then copy the dark frame and paste it onto the star-trail image. At this point the image will go dark, so make sure that the new dark-frame layer is selected. Go to the Blend Mode menu again in the Layers palette and select the Difference mode. Now most of the noise on your image should be minimized, and you can flatten the image again and make final adjustments to it. Save the final image and you’re done!

Steps 2 to 6 can be tedious if you have a lot of images to stack. Photoshop has a very nice automation feature that can make processes like these much easier and quicker, so check your manual for detailed instructions on how to use it.

Exposure Gaps

Depending on your camera’s resolution, lens, and sky location, if you look closely you might notice small gaps between your stacked images. The reason for this is that at the end of each exposure, the pixels that are being exposed are not (on average) getting the full duration of exposure. Then, when the next exposure begins, these same pixels are still not getting the full exposure. Since the Lighten blending mode is not additive, when you stack the images the brightest single pixel is selected in the stack and, on average, at each gap it’s only 50 percent as bright as the adjacent area.

Shooting at less than full resolution (by binning, or combining, the pixels) will often cause the gaps to close up. Also, if you shoot the polar regions (or use a very short lens), the problem is not as evident since the overlap is so great.

If you find the gaps unacceptable, there are several Photoshop techniques that you can use to correct them. The technique I’ve found to be most effective is to simply duplicate the completed star-trail image, copy and paste it onto the original with Lighten mode, and shift and/or rotate it slightly to fill in the gaps. However, for viewing on a computer screen and for making small to medium prints, these tiny gaps should not be objectionable or, in most cases, even noticeable.

I’d be interested to hear from readers who might come up with a more clever (and more elegant) solution on how to minimize exposure gaps.

I also discovered in my tests that if you take the images (and the dark frame) without using the camera’s “sharpening” feature, the dark frame subtracts out much cleaner. If you use sharpening you will notice an annoying black ring around bright pixels that goes away when you turn off sharpening. However, if you don’t use internal sharpening in the camera, you might find it necessary to do it with Photoshop (under Filter) once the final image is stacked and flattened.

Our experiments were all done with a fairly high-end Nikon digital SLR camera, but I suspect that most other professional digital SLRs could be made to work as well. Overall, I’ve been impressed with the power of digital photography, achieving results that I had previously thought were possible only with film. While our technique does require fairly good equipment and significantly more effort in the processing stage, the results are nothing short of spectacular, and I look forward to seeing what others can accomplish using this technique.

What every musician should know about photography?

So your band is recording an album, and you’re starting to think about how you’re going to promote it to the industry and public. One of the key items you need to consider is decent photography. Musicians need photography to use on their CD cover/liner notes, and possibly more important, for promotion purposes. This photo is a representation of the artist or the band, making it necessary to put a lot of thought and creativity into it. Unfortunately, hiring a professional may not come cheap.

While speaking to four photographers from Halifax, Montreal, Toronto and Vancouver the prices vary for bandphotography, but the advice is similar.

When choosing a photographer, it is necessary to research what the photographer has done in the past and choose one that fits your budget. Bands that are signed under a major label have their photo shoots paid for by the label, enabling them a larger budget to work with. Independent bands have a more difficult time. When finding different prices for your band photography, make sure you know what is included in all the packages. Ask what it will cost for additional supplies such as contact sheets, film, processing, final prints, etc. Ask a photographer to explain clearly any procedures you don’t understand. As well, make sure you ask about photo credit. Many photographers keep the rights to the photos and want to be credited every time it is used. Like the rest of the music industry there is negotiation involved resulting in some form of an agreement.

Don Bird, a music consultant from Bird’s Word Productions Ltd., in Toronto, ON, suggests that if a band can’t afford a first rate photographer, then they should go to some of the art colleges and schools because there will be students who will have fresh ideas music wise.

John Leighton a photographer in Halifax, charges $100 an hour plus supplies. Leighton prefers that when a band comes to him for an album shot or promo picture, they have pre-planned what they want as a band. They should have an idea of what will work for them and decide on one member of the band to discuss with him what they want. “When I have six different band members coming to me and telling me different things, it gets frustrating.”

Johanne Mernmercier of Montreal, PQ. says, “I listen to the music to see what kind of mood they want. Sometimes they want photos from their live shows, in the studio or just outside. We just try to have fun. I think the artists should do research to see what has been done and find pictures of what they like.” Mernmercier charges $1,600-$1,800 for a one-day photo shoot. This does not include make-up artists, wardrobe or supplies. For a black and white Press Kit photo, she charges $300 and it belongs to the artist to do what he or she wants with it.

According to Jim Dawson of Fotowork in Toronto, ON, “if the portfolio looks good and the photographer is above board in explaining your options and his/her charges, then it’s a go.” Dawson’s prices are in the hundreds, “it all depends on the package,” he said. “Most clients are more interested in who you’ve photographed, more than what you’ve done with the people you’ve shot.” Musicians should focus more on the photographer’s style than who they’ve photographed before. Just because a photographer has shot some famous musicians doesn’t mean they’re going to be great for you or your band.

Photographer Ashely Maile from Vancouver, BC says, “I will cut a deal with an independent band and I hope they will help me along the way. It has happened that bands I have photographed, that are now signed, do help me out. My rates are less expensive for an indie band because they don’t have a lot of money and are not backed by a label.”

The band should be telling the photographer what they would be using the picture for. This will help the photographer understand what kind of photo is needed. “If you are looking for an album cover or design, then you should go for something darker, but if you’re just need an 8×10 glossy photo, you want it to be bright so it can reproduce really well. You have to picture it being reproduced in a little community newspaper or something like that,” says Maile.